Rare Texas Crag Opens to Climbers, For Just a Few Weekends

Take it from a native like me: Texas doesn’t offer a lot of climbing.
Yes, there is world-class bouldering at Hueco Tanks. But the El Paso–adjacent crag is also a 10+ hour drive from most of the state’s major cities. Other than that, the Lone Star State’s dearth of public land allows for only a handful of other crags.
Among those, the wealth of quality rock and the central location of Enchanted Rock (a state-owned area) has long made it a top destination for the state’s many climbers. But a new climbing area is now available as well — at least for a handful of weekends over the next year.
Access Fund, a nonprofit dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and accessible, has created a partnership with the owners of Inks Ranch near Llano, Texas. Located about a half-hour drive from Enchanted Rock, or 2 hours from Austin, it’s a historic cattle ranch with some high-quality rock.
The family that owns the ranch partnered with Access Fund in 2017 to grant access to its acres of rock features and climbing on approved weekends. After a temporary closure, access to the climbing area is back and kicks off on October 24-26. Climbing is only available on approved weekends.
Inks Ranch: A Closer Look
The climbing at Inks Ranch will be similar for anyone who has climbed at Enchanted Rock, according to Access Fund. A Rakkup guidebook to the area says the family-owned ranch contains “a trove of granite boulders, slabs, and cracks.”
There’s a mix of bouldering, trad, and sport climbing available. The area remains so rare that if you climb a route not listed in the guide, it could very well be a first ascent.
In past years, the ranch has also hosted the Inks Ranch Climbing Festival, though it hasn’t been repeated since 2022. Since then, the area has only opened intermittently on certain weekends, thanks to the partnership with Access Fund. Available dates over the coming months include:
- Oct. 24-26, 2025
- Jan. 30-Feb. 1, 2026
- Feb. 27-Mar. 1, 2026
- March 27-29, 2026
If you plan on heading out to the crag, Access Fund said that “climbers should be self-reliant and competent with route finding, anchor building, and should always ensure that they have a way to descend a climb without leaving gear or tat behind.”
Spaces are limited, so interested climbers must reserve their spot through Access Fund. Also, climbers love to check out new crags, so we wouldn’t be surprised to see a lot of interest in this one.
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