Most van build guides assume you can build cabinetry and wire 12V systems. They assume van interiors are square. They’re not. Those curved walls and angled ribs make cabinet building exponentially harder. They think you have more than hand tools — or will buy them. Where do those go?
I’m not a carpenter or electrician. But I’ve stumbled my way through several builds to know where DIYers waste money and time. This is the parts roadmap I wish I’d had.
The Bones: Lost Hiway Transit Builder Foundation Kit
The industry sells you on pretty interiors first — wrong order. Start with the system that defines your entire build philosophy. The Lost Hiway Transit Builder Foundation Kit is the skeleton your entire interior hangs on. It’s central to keeping this build lightweight and modular.
Why This System Changes Everything
Traditional van builds use wood, which absorbs moisture and is heavy. Using wood and screws is like building a house in a van, and I’ve watched these builds rattle apart on washboard dirt roads after a few years.
The Lost Hiway system is different. The Builder Foundation Kit is 16-gauge powder-coated steel — an internal bracing system that eliminates the need for endless drilling into your van. It provides mounting surfaces throughout the interior for headliners, wall panels, overhead cabinets, and L-track.
This is the key: The foundation kit provides the structural framework for mounting L-track wherever you need it — on the floor, walls, or ceiling. L-track is purchased separately. Everything bolts into the L-track and can be removed or repositioned in minutes.
Need more floor space for bikes? Unbolt the storage bench. Want to reconfigure the layout? Move components along the L-track. Modularity without permanent mounting, without adding weight from redundant systems. And, maybe most importantly, no screws to pull out, voluntarily or not.
The foundation kit also minimizes thermal bridging — where metal conducts heat or cold through your insulation. Traditional builds screw wood strips directly into metal ribs. Every screw creates a thermal bridge that bypasses insulation. Your heater burns more fuel, and your AC churns through battery power sooner.
The Lost Hiway system creates a cavity behind your wall panels for wiring and final insulation. Everything stays hidden and clean.
The Complete Lost Hiway Package
Here’s everything I’m using from Lost Hiway:
Transit Builder Foundation Kit: This is the 16-gauge steel bracing system that provides mounting surfaces throughout the van. This structural framework enables you to mount L-track wherever you need it. L-track is purchased separately. The foundation kit enables the modular approach by providing a solid mounting surface without drilling into factory ribs.
Narrow Fender Boxes: These measure 14 inches wide by 18 inches tall by 60 inches long. The driver’s side houses the water system. The passenger side houses the electrical power components. These boxes use the wheel well areas for storage, which might otherwise be wasted space. They’re narrower than standard fender boxes, providing an additional 12 inches of garage width for storing dirt bikes, but still have floor space for bicycles and gear.
Platform Bed System: This is a three-piece platform measuring 68 inches north–south by 64 inches east–west. Adjustable garage storage from 36 to 48 inches in vertical height. This is the simple platform bed, not a Murphy bed or hydraulic system.
As I explained in my previous article about keeping things lightweight and modular, I’ve had the fancy hydraulic beds and Murphy beds. They add weight, mechanical complexity, and potential failure points. A simple platform bed lets me store bikes and gear underneath, and I can set the height once and forget it. The reduced headspace while sleeping doesn’t bother me. My eyes are closed.
Pedestal Galley: This measures 18 inches wide by 33 inches tall by 22 inches front to back, and it includes a sink, faucet, and foot pump. It’s made from lightweight aluminum. The plumbing runs through the fender boxes to keep everything out of sight and protected.
42-inch Storage Bench: This bolts directly into the L-track. Need it out for a big gear haul? Unbolt it in minutes and slide it out. L-track means no permanent mounting — reconfigure your floor plan whenever needed. A toilet box can sit in line with the storage bench if required later.
The Foundation Kit enables L-track mounting wherever your build needs it. Bolt components in, unbolt them when you don’t need them, and reconfigure as trips change.
Lost Hiway’s aluminum components are lighter than wood equivalents. Every pound saved means better handling, improved gas mileage, and reduced wear on the van’s mechanical components.
Wall Panels: ACM for Zero Moisture Problems
I’m not using Lost Hiway’s wall panels. I’m sourcing ACM (Aluminum Composite Material) separately. Yes, it makes the van interior look like a hospital. I don’t care. I’m not looking for luxury. I’m looking for zero moisture absorption and none of the common issues with popular Baltic birch panels. And I don’t need fabric upholstery.
Van interiors aren’t square. Those curved walls, angled ribs, wheel well intrusions — they all make templating and cutting wall panels exponentially harder. You can spend days with cardboard trying to trace the panels correctly. Even then, mistakes are inevitable if you’re not a pro at it.
I’m having Viewpoint Campervans handle this with access to proper digital templates and methods. That saves massive amounts of time on CAD (cardboard-aided design) and redoing panels that don’t fit. ACM is waterproof, doesn’t warp, and wipes clean in seconds.
One-Stop Shop: In-Stock Products, Campervan Builder–Specific Knowledge
Before I get into specific components, Campervan HQ works with over 600 professional van builders. They stock an incredibly extensive inventory of RV and van conversion products.
Why does this matter? Campervan HQ carries everything from insulation to windows to electrical systems. Professional builders use them because they have product knowledge, they test what they sell, and you’re not hunting across dozens of different websites.
This is where I’m getting most of my components. It’s faster, it’s easier, and if something doesn’t work, I can call someone who understands van-specific applications.
Rainier RV Flooring System
The floor gets hammered all day. It needs constant sweeping. It gets abused more than anything else in the van. The Rainier RV Flooring System is a CNC-cut subfloor made from polyurethane foam reinforced with fiberglass.
It’s 40% lighter than marine-grade plywood at the same 3/4-inch thickness, yet extremely rigid and impervious to moisture — rot-proof. It also provides sound and thermal insulation. It is precisely cut to fit the Transit 250 148″ wheelbase.
Traditional van floors use marine plywood — heavy, moisture-absorbing, and prone to rot. The composite construction eliminates those problems while saving weight for payload.
Installation is straightforward. Everything is pre-cut for the Transit chassis, with circular cutouts for the OEM floor-mounting points: no measuring, making templates, or cutting. Just remove the factory rubber mat and install.
The Lonseal vinyl surface is attached to the subfloor. Marine-grade sheet vinyl is used for the same reasons as the ACM walls: no moisture absorption, no odors, and easy to clean. There’s no carpet — I need practical. Sweep it out, wipe it down, move on.
Insulation: Campervan HQ Thinsulate Kit
Spray foam traps moisture. Foam board creates thermal bridging. Rockwool is heavy and absorbs odors. Reflectix is aluminum foil with delusions of grandeur.
3M Thinsulate is what you find in expedition parkas rated for Everest. It’s hydrophobic — doesn’t hold water, doesn’t settle, and doesn’t absorb smells. I’ve been in expensive vans that permanently smell like wet dog after one rainy trip. That’s moisture trapped in organic insulation.
The Campervan HQ kit is pre-cut for a Transit. It includes enough material to insulate every surface. No measuring, no waste. And, if you’ve tried to cut insulation with precision, you know how frustrating it is.
Electrical System: EcoFlow Power Kit & 48V Efficiency
The EcoFlow Power Kit changes everything about van electrical: plug-and-play components, no custom wiring diagrams, and no marine-grade copper wire calculations.
I understand 12V DC wiring from years of sound system installs. But it always involved trial and error. Worse, in my first van, something shorted, causing a small fire. The wiring was correct — the problem was clearance for chassis flex on rough roads. Wires that looked fine when parked rubbed through insulation on washboard roads.
I chose the EcoFlow because I didn’t want to deal with that anymore. The 5kVA Power Kit Gen 2 includes a Power Hub, a 30A or 50A AC/DC Smart Distribution Panel, a 5kWh LFP battery, and a PowerInsight display. Everything talks through one app.
The Power Hub is a 5-in-1 unit: a 4,000W pure sine wave inverter-charger (5,000VA, surge up to 10kVA), two MPPT solar charge controllers, a DC–DC battery charger, and a DC–DC converter. The distribution panel manages 16 fused DC circuits and 12 AC circuits — all controllable from the app or display.
Here’s the critical detail: Both the EcoFlow system and the Velit air conditioner can run on 48V. Higher voltage means lower amperage for the same wattage. Lower amperage means less heat, thinner wires, and less voltage drop over distance. Traditional 12V systems lose efficiency as wire runs increase — a 48V system doesn’t. This matters when your AC unit is on the roof and your batteries are on the floor.
The 5kWh batteries are stackable — add up to nine for a total of 45kWh. The system charges from four sources: solar (up to 4,800W), alternator, shore power (up to 50A), and generator.
The system scales from basic lighting to rooftop air conditioning. Traditional electrical builds require days of labor if you know what you’re doing, longer if you’re learning on the go. The EcoFlow cuts installation to just a few hours.
Campervan Roof Components: Racks, Vents, and Air Conditioning
It might seem like the roof of your van is vast, but that real estate is valuable and, in reality, very limited. The majority of the area is usually dedicated to solar panels, and the more you have, the faster you juice up your similarly limited battery power.
Additionally, anything you add to your roof will detract from fuel efficiency, overhead clearance, and vehicle handling — so choose wisely.
Flatline Van Co. Low Pro Roof Rack
The Flatline Low Pro is the most aerodynamic rack in their line. The sleek design and integrated aluminum fairing increase fuel efficiency. Side rails stand just 5 inches high — minimal profile for reduced drag. Aluminum construction keeps it lightweight at just 66 pounds.
But here’s why I chose it: The rack bolts directly into factory-threaded holes in the Transit roof. There’s zero drilling or new penetrations that could leak. No risk of hitting wiring or structural components.
The crossbars are adjustable. Six 58-inch crossbars move forward or backward to accommodate your fan, AC unit, and solar panel layout. Usable rack dimensions are 117 inches long by 57.3 inches wide.
The crossbars are 10-series aluminum extrusions with drop-in hardware slots, making them compatible with 80/20. Cut holes for roof components first, and then adjust crossbars around them.
Maxxfan Deluxe
The Maxxfan Deluxe isn’t negotiable. It’s the most critical component for ventilation and temperature control.
Maxxair’s top-of-the-line RV roof fan has a 10-speed reversible fan and an industry-exclusive built-in rain shield. That rain shield lets the Maxxfan run in rain, shine, or in motion. You can leave it open and running while driving or during storms. No other roof vent does this as well. Available with thermostat, remote control, or manual operation, it fits standard 14×14-inch rooftop openings.
Velit 2000R Mini Air Conditioner
The Velit 2000R Mini runs on 48V DC power — same as the EcoFlow system. It’s critical for efficiency, and it doesn’t need shore power, a generator, or a massive inverter.
It’s one of the smallest rooftop air conditioners ever built and delivers 7,000 BTU of cooling capacity with a slim 6.5-inch clearance profile. It draws as low as 20A at 12V (approximately 240 W), proportionally less at 48V — extremely efficient for off-grid use.
It also costs less than most comparable van AC units. Traditional rooftop AC units require 2,000+ W to start, 500+ Ah of battery storage, and several thousand watts of inverter capacity — add that inverter cost to the AC price. The Velit runs directly on DC power, eliminating inverter losses and the need for massive inverter capacity.
The catch? It’s not completely cooling the entire van in Death Valley at noon. But it makes sleeping comfortable on 85-degree nights. That’s the real use case.
Van Window Installation: Choosing the Right Configuration
I’ve decided. One window on the passenger side sliding door. One window behind the driver’s seat, where the kitchen will be.
That’s it. No windows in the back cargo area where I sleep and store gear. No rear door windows. This is about thermal efficiency and privacy. The back is dark, well-insulated, and private. That’s where all my gear lives and where the bed is.
Two windows give me light and airflow up front without compromising the sleeping area. Cross-ventilation with the MaxxFan handles air movement. More windows mean more heat loss and more places for people to look in.
Window selection: VWD (CR Laurence) Ford Transit windows — one for the passenger-side sliding door with a fixed window and one driver’s-side slider window. For any windows, make sure to include the trim locks, SikaFlex P2G adhesive, and a primer.
The installation materials matter. The SikaFlex is an automotive-grade urethane adhesive that bonds the window to the van and seals it. The primer ensures proper adhesion. Use the right materials, or plan to redo it when it leaks.
Essential Campervan Components vs. Optional Upgrades
Following the logic of my previous article on keeping things simple and the van light, there are a few items I fully regret not including. After significant suffering, anxiety, and sometimes danger, I’m listing them here. I believe these warrant serious consideration. Some things can be added later, but would require some heavy backtracking.
Gas Heater: Non-Negotiable Van Heating System
I learned this the hard way. I thought living in Texas meant I didn’t need a real heater. Wrong.
When you need heat, you absolutely need it. Portable propane heaters create moisture — condensation dripping down windows and walls. Gas heaters vent outside — dry heat. No condensation. No mold.
My Transit van runs on gas, and gas heaters work exactly like diesel heaters — they tap into your vehicle’s gas tank to barely sip fuel and vent outside. Installation is straightforward if you follow the instructions. Never skip the heater. This is a must-have, not a nice-to-have.
Suspension Lift & Tires
I don’t have AWD or 4WD. But I live miles down a rough dirt road. I need better ground clearance for entry and exit angles. Scraping the front or rear on dips and transitions gets old fast.
The solution: oversize tires and a lift. Larger-diameter tires and a suspension lift improve ground clearance and approach/departure angles. A lift is also necessary to keep oversized tires from rubbing bodywork as the suspension compresses or in tight turns.
I haven’t decided which lift system to use yet. But this is about daily drivability on rough roads, not rock crawling. A 2-inch lift delivers the clearance I actually need — not for flexing on Instagram in the parking lot.
Professional builders and full-time van-based adventurers have universally steered me to the Van Compass Topo 2.0 lift kits, and I won’t argue. Weldtec Designs is another brand that builders suggest. I’ve only had experience with Quigley conversions, which aren’t DIY options, and with custom kits configured for me from available components or fabricated components.
I’ve only used 255/75R16 tires for my 2-inch lifts. Anything larger requires more than a minimal trimming of the pinch weld in the front air dam (to clear the tire while turning) and won’t fit in the standard spare tire location. And that size has been enough for my needs, anywhere I think a large and loaded van should venture.
Van Sound Deadening for Transit Cargo Models
Transit cargo vans are louder than passenger models. The cargo version doesn’t have effective noise reduction at all. Every road noise comes straight through the metal walls.
Sound deadening goes on before insulation. I haven’t sourced this yet, but it’s necessary. Long highway drives in a loud van create fatigue. Fix it early.
Dynamat, Kilmat, and Hushmat are popular brands that come in various formats and thicknesses. There are also plenty of less expensive options on Amazon. I suggest a minimum of 40 mil, and if you can afford it, 80 mil. Going thicker does add weight, but the silence is golden.
They are almost all peel-and-stick. You don’t need it on every surface; just in strategic places that vary from van to van. I found that wheel wells and the middle of larger sections, like walls and the roof, perform well. And while you’re at it, it’s a great upgrade to do the front door panels and/or the front wheel wells (they do make your door speakers sound better).
DIY Van Conversion: What’s Next
These are the core components that define the DIY campervan build. The Lost Hiway system for structure. Campervan HQ for the foundation systems. The EcoFlow for power. Components chosen to eliminate the most common DIY challenges while keeping the build lightweight and modular.
But knowing what to buy is only part of the equation. Another factor is knowing when to install it and in what order. Mess up the sequence, and you’ll be tearing out components you just installed.
In the next article, I’ll walk through the actual build order — the step-by-step sequence that prevents expensive mistakes and wasted time, including the scariest step: cutting holes in your van.
Read the full article here
