Tactical & Survival

Skip Yosemite: The Best Backpacking in California Isn’t in a National Park

California is a backpacker’s paradise, with stunning trails in national and state parks, and in the mountains, deserts, and along the ocean. Yet for all of this natural beauty, some of the state’s best backpacking actually lies in a little-known wilderness area near Fresno.

Dinkey Lakes Trail guides hikers past a series of alpine lakes in a remote part of the Sierra National Forest. And this picturesque, wild escape deserves a spot on your to-do list. 

Dinkey Lakes: California’s Hidden Gem

Located approximately 45 miles from Fresno, Dinkey Lakes Wilderness is a federally designated wilderness area that covers 30,000 acres in the Sierra National Forest at elevations ranging from about 8,000 to 10,000 feet.

It lies right next to the John Muir National Forest, separated by an off-highway vehicle route, and is close to Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Park. The closest town with basic services is Shaver Lake, which is located about 22 miles away from the trailhead.  

What to Do: Alpine Lakes and Views 

The vast pine forests of Dinkey Lakes offer a great choose-your-own-adventure experience, with lakes and dispersed camping every two to three miles. If you’ve got younger kids or just want a short, simple trip, you can stop at First or Second Dinkey Lake. For a longer hike with varied terrain, go the full 11 miles to Cliff Lake.

The short mileage makes for a great weekender. If you’d like to stay longer, it’s convenient to pick one central lake to camp, and then take day trips to other lakes. 

When I was a kid, my family and I regularly hiked 9 miles to Island Lake or all the way to Cliff Lake. Both were quiet with plenty of large, flat campsites.

The phrase “dinkey lakes” might conjure up notions of small, unimpressive ponds, but not so with these bodies of water! These clean, clear lakes are large enough that it would be a serious workout to swim across them. 

If, after a day or two of dehydrated backpacking meals, you find yourself craving real food, there’s plenty of fish to reel in from these lakes. Provided that you possess a required license from the California Department of Fish and Wildlife and follow stated regulations, you’ll be feasting on fresh brook and rainbow trout in no time. 

It’s also possible to reach one of the Sierra’s most iconic formations through this wilderness area. If you’re willing to add some class 2 and 3 scrambling to your itinerary, it’s possible to hike to Three Sisters, the famous collection of peaks standing at 10,600 feet, as well as Dogtooth Peak (10,300 feet). Whether or not you decide to hike to the summits, you’ll get to bask in the view of these impressive landmarks. 

Backcountry Access: How to Get There

I grew up backpacking in California, and of all the places I’ve hiked, Dinkey Lakes stands out for its true remoteness. If you are looking for a real backcountry escape — from people, from cell service, from city noise — you’ll find it here. 

There is, of course, a reason why this spot is so uncrowded. The drive to the trailhead from the closest town, Shaver Lake, is only 22 miles, but takes an hour to travel because the roads are so rough and tumble. This is definitely not the road to take your Prius or minivan on; a 4WD or AWD vehicle is a prerequisite. 

You never know what the road conditions might be on the way to the trailhead. One year, we had to stop several miles away due to a large, fallen tree blocking the road, until some locals with a Jeep and a chainsaw pulled up and took care of it. 

Important Info and Permits 

The hiking in this area is not particularly difficult and should be accessible to moderately experienced hikers. In the 11 miles to Cliff Lake, you’ll gain about 2,000 feet of elevation. Waymarking is spotty in places, and it can be easy to lose the trail, so be sure to bring a GPS device and a map.

Timing for Dinkey Lakes can be a little tricky. It’s necessary to wait for all the snow to melt, and if you go too soon in June or July, your trip might coincide with peak mosquito season.

One year, when we went in June, we couldn’t leave our tents without being beset by swarms. Late August and early September are the best times for conditions with fewer bugs and temps still warm enough to justify taking a dip in a lake. 

As with all areas located in Sierra National Forest, any overnight stay in Dinkey Lakes requires a wilderness permit, which can be acquired through the Recreation.gov website. During your visit, be sure to follow all U.S. Forest Service rules and regulations. Proper bear-safe food storage is required, and no campfires are allowed above 10,000 feet.

Compared to the high demand for nearby areas like John Muir, it can be much easier to grab a permit to Dinkey Lakes. With a little planning ahead, you should be able to grab a permit and get out into the backcountry in no time!



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