The Best Bass Fishing Rods of 2025

The number of bass fishing rod manufacturers in today’s day and age is staggering. Every pro angler recommends the rods they use, but let’s be real: they’re sponsored and get paid to promote the product. Of course, the guy with a boat wrapped with brand X logos says they’re the best.

Furthermore, one rod may excel in one application but struggle in another. There’s a reason professionals often have 10 or more rods on deck at a time. They need them, and despite what your significant other thinks, it’s always better to have more rods.

I spent months testing over 15 different rods in a myriad of fishing situations. From fishing small creeks and rivers to big water on bass boats, I was able to test rods while fishing for wintering bass, pre-spawn bass, and spawning bass. It became clear which rods performed best in different situations, including cranking rods, swimbait rods, and finesse rods.

This guide covers individual rod models. Each of these rods is available in both casting and spinning models, but I cannot speak to other models in the same line. The best rod I tested, the G-Loomis NRX+ 844C MBR, possesses some voodoo magic, making it perfect for those looking for a do-all baitcaster. On the spinning rod side of things, I found the Shimano Zodias ZDS70MLA to provide unmatched sensitivity.

A final note: if you need a reel to pair with your new rod, check out my Best Bass Fishing Reels of 2025 buyer’s guide.

Other Sweet Bass Rods I Tested

Best Bass Fishing Rod Comparison Chart

How I Tested Bass Fishing Rods

We’ve all done it: you go into a tackle shop looking for a new rod and give it the ol’ “wiggle test.” Maybe you pin the rods to the ground to check out the differences in action. In reality, this doesn’t tell you a single thing about the rod’s performance, but it’s all you can do without buying the rod.

Fortunately, I was able to get all of these rods out on the water. I’d say that testing rods with actual fish involved gives a lot more insight than just holding them in a rod aisle.

Who I Am

I’m a bona fide fishhead and spend more time on the water in one year than most people do in ten due to poor life decisions. My fishing obsession began in childhood, and I started working in the fishing industry while in college thirteen years ago. I have worked in it ever since as a fishing guide, outdoor writer, and sales rep.

I began seriously bass fishing a decade ago, seeking something to focus my angling efforts on beyond my full-time job as a fly fishing and ice fishing guide. Years ago, I dabbled in tournaments, fishing as a co-angler before I bought my own boat. While I no longer fish in tournaments, I do guide bass fishing trips in Middle Tennessee in both my bass boat and a small raft on secluded rivers. P.S. you can find a set of slick shades like mine in our best fishing sunglasses buyers guide.

My Testing Grounds and Process

I tested these rods on lakes and river systems in the Middle Tennessee area. These include Percy Priest, Old Hickory, the Cumberland River, and smaller creeks and rivers that will remain nameless. This gave me valuable insight for both the guy who carries one or two rods while creek fishing and the guy who has 20 rods stuffed into a bass boat.

Bass rods are diverse. Some are better suited for specific techniques than others, and I wanted to ensure that I covered a wide range of lure types during different seasons. I threw crankbaits, chatterbaits, A-Rigs, glide baits, football jigs, dropshot rigs, ned rigs, etc, on these rods. You get the picture.

I also put them in the hands of clients to gauge their thoughts. They provided me with great feedback on which products work best for beginner and intermediate anglers.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Bass Fishing Rod

There are more bass fishing rods than any other category of rod in the world. This is due to the fact that the bass is one of the most pursued fish in the United States. The limitless options can be daunting to pick through, and it can seem like there is a specialty rod for every situation (because there is). Below are some key considerations to keep in mind when purchasing a rod.

And if you’re looking for a reel to pair with your new rod, check out my Best Bass Fishing Reels of 2025 buyer’s guide.

Spinning Rod Vs. Baitcasting Rod

The first decision you need to make is whether to purchase a spinning or baitcasting rod. Spinning rods are the traditional fishing rod most people are familiar with. The reel hangs underneath the rod and is controlled by a bail. A baitcasting rod has the reel on top and is controlled by thumbing the spool.

Spinning rods excel at finesse fishing. That means using light lines and lures with presentations that rely on sensitive rods, such as the Fenwick Elite ELB71M-XFS. In the bass world, spinning rods are associated with lighter lines. As such, they should be used more in open-water situations. Often, you will not have a heavy enough line on a spinning rod to pull bass out of a thick cover.

Baitcasting rods excel at power fishing techniques. With baitcasters, anglers fish with heavier lines and heavier baits. Baitcasting rods give you better accuracy and line control and are better for flipping and pitching.

Devout bass guys will often carry at least five of each, and most bass anglers will end up purchasing at least one of each: a spinning rod for finesse baits and a baitcaster like the G-Loomis NRX+ 844C MBR for power fishing.

You don’t have to have one of each to go chase bass. It’s possible to fish with lures that most people would use on a baitcasting rod on a spinning rod and vice versa. You need to follow the lure weight recommendation on the rod, though.

Lure Weight Recommendation

Before picking up your next rod, consider what size lures you plan on throwing with it. You don’t have to follow the recommendation to a T, but you shouldn’t deviate too far from the recommended weight. Throwing lures outside of the recommended weight will result in a loss of effective casting distance and, in the case of going too heavy, can break the rod.

Some specialty rods have a limited range of lure weights. While that may seem like a downside to a beginner bass fisherman, it usually means that the manufacturer designed that rod to excel at what it does. For example, the Shimano Zodias ZDS70MLA is the best drop shot rod I fished by a mile. Anglers who specialize in a particular technique find great value in technique-specific rods.

Other rods, such as the Johnny Morris Platinum Signature JPL71MHTF, have a wide range of lure weight recommendations. These are often generalist rods that allow you to throw numerous baits with a single rod.

Bass Fishing Rod Power

Rod power is directly correlated to the lure weight recommendation on the rod. It refers to the rod’s backbone and the weight it can handle. You’ll see it described in two ways: a clear-cut label that says light (L), medium light (ML), medium (M), medium heavy (MH), heavy (H), and extra heavy (XH), or a number system like you’ll see on the Dobyns Fury 702SF. The number systems are manufacturer-specific and similar to the standard label, with lower numbers being lighter than higher numbers.

To illustrate rod power, imagine rods being held parallel to the ground with a 2-ounce weight attached to them. An ultralight rod would flex so much that the weight would hit the ground. A swimbait rod with a heavy action, like the Johnny Morris Carbonlite Glidebait Rod, would bend minimally and keep supporting the weight in the air.

Rod power is not standardized across manufacturers. For example, the medium-heavy Fenwick Eagle EGLB73MH-FC feels more like a heavy. You can use the rod power to get a general idea and then focus specifically on the exact lure weight the manufacturer recommends.

Medium-light and medium are common power ratings for spinning rods. The heavier rods usually refer to baitcasters. A medium-heavy is your standard, do-it-all, versatile stick. It won’t excel on the edges of its limits, but there are a lot of baits and techniques that pair well with a medium-heavy rod.

XH rods are power-houses, made to cast huge baits like plastic swimbaits or very heavy punching rigs.

Rod Action

Rod action refers to where the rod bends. It is labeled as moderate, fast, extra-fast, or a combination of those. It is different than rod power. You can choose a medium-heavy rod with either a fast or moderate action. The rods have the same amount of backbone and lifting power, but they will bend in different spots when subjected to a load.

Under pressure, rods with a moderate action bend lower in the blank and are described as having a parabolic action. I guess some bass dudes took a pre-calc class.

Moderate rods are best for crankbaits and other treble-hooked baits. Rods with this action, like the Shimano Curado CDC72MHGA, are more forgiving on the hookset, and the deeper bend keeps the treble hooks from getting ripped out of a fish’s mouth. It also gives more flex during the fight, which helps keep fish pinned with lures like jerkbaits that are notorious for falling out.

Extra-fast action rods are on the other end of the spectrum. They bend at the very tip of the rod. These are best for situations where quick, powerful hooksets are needed. Take, for example, flipping into thick lily pads or cattails. An extra-fast rod will ensure rapid, deep hook penetration.

You can find rods that fit between those options to give you exactly what you’re looking for. However, if you’re a beginner, don’t feel like you have to get a certain rod for every little thing. It is absolutely possible to fish a crankbait on an extra-fast rod and catch fish. You should focus on the types of baits you throw the most and make your decision based on that.

Bass Fishing Rod Length

Bass fishing rods range from 6’8″ to 8′ long, with the majority of them landing in the 7′-7’6″ range. There are some key benefits to longer and shorter rods.

Longer rods (7’3″ and up) cast further, have more power, and excel at setting the hook at a distance. They are best for techniques that demand long casts, such as deep-diving crankbaits and swimbaits.

When setting the hook, the tip of a longer rod covers more distance and thus picks up more line, resulting in a better hookset. Length is also how many manufacturers beef up heavier-powered rods.

Shorter rods (6’8″ and up) will cast more accurately and make it easier to manipulate lures with the rod itself. A great example is a jerkbait. To fish a jerkbait, you pop the rod tip and then reel in the slack. Shorter rods make this much easier, as long rods can be unwieldy and smack things as you work the bait.

Handle Type

Many rods on the market offer multiple handle options, including straight and split grips.

This ultimately comes down to personal preference. A split grip allows for greater sensitivity, as you can feel the blank itself while fishing. A full cork grip is a classic look that really comes down to that- looks.

While a split grip allows for a touch more sensitivity, I don’t really notice as big a difference as some people make it out to be. Even with a split grip, your hand is still on a cork handle. The only rod I tested that I felt gave me increased sensitivity in spades was the Shimano Zodias ZDS70MLA, but it’s not really a split grip. It has one handle, and the rest of it is exposed plastic material that doesn’t dampen vibration like standard handles do.

Most handles are constructed with cork or foam. Again, it comes down to personal preference. You shouldn’t let the handle type dictate your rod choice. You should select a rod based on the above factors and then choose the handle type you prefer, if the manufacturer offers different options.

Bass Fishing Rod Material

In modern times, almost all bass fishing rods are built with carbon fiber, whereas in the past, rods were made of fiberglass. Carbon is lighter, more sensitive, and stiffer than fiberglass.

There are some rods on the market today that are made from fiberglass: dedicated crankbait rods. Remember when we were talking rod actions and said moderate actions were better for treble-hooked baits? Fiberglass is a slower material, so it works great for techniques that need slower actions.

Plan on getting carbon fiber rods exclusively, except for cranking rods. where there are some great fiberglass and glass/carbon hybrids on the market, like the Shimano Curado CDC72MHGA, hands down my favorite cranking rod.

Price and Value of the Best Bass Fishing Rods

You can find bass rods for dirt cheap, or spend your life savings while trying to fill your rod lockers. However, not every single one of your rods needs to be the most expensive. There are guys fishing the Bassmaster Elite Series with nothing but “budget” rods on their boat deck. Consider what benefits you need from more expensive rods before making a purchase.

Budget

Budget bass fishing rods fall in the $70-$150 range. There are rods cheaper than that. However, they won’t be specifically designed for bass. In this price range, you get a solid, dedicated bass rod.

Budget rods tend to be heavier and less sensitive. Manufacturers have to use lower-quality carbon fiber to keep costs down, so you lose out on the benefits of the latest carbon technology.

You will also find lower-quality reel seats and guides. The reel seat is primarily cosmetic and doesn’t affect performance too much, but for bougie folks, a plastic reel seat can be a noticeable downgrade.

The lower-quality guides make a real difference. Less durable rod guides can become chipped or develop grooves over time, potentially snapping your line at the worst possible moment. Most rods in this category have serviceable guides; however, over a long period, you may start to experience line fray.

These rods may also not have a warranty or replacement program, so if you break one, you’re out of luck.

The real advantage of budget rods in bass fishing is the ability to get more rods to cover a wide range of applications. If I were starting out and had a $200 rod budget, I would rather get one budget baitcasting rod and one budget spinning rod over a single mid-tier rod. And there are some real hidden gems in this category, such as the Dobyn’s Fury 702SF, which offers amazing sensitivity at an unbeatable price.

Mid Tier

This is where most dedicated bass fishermen live. A mid-tier rod in the $150-$300 range will provide a step up in technology, offering increased sensitivity and lighter materials. The blank will be thinner and feel lighter in hand. Some rod manufacturers, like Bass Pro Shops, top out in this price range and offer the highest-quality rod they make, such as the Johnny Morris Platinum Signature rods, which are manufactured in the USA.

In this range, you’ll start to find more technique-specific rods, which will give you the best performance possible for a singular fishing application. As anglers get more specialized and figure out what techniques they fish the most, they often opt for a higher-quality rod that fits their style.

At this price point, you’ll receive a warranty that covers defects, as well as a replacement program for accidental breakage. For example, the Shimano Zodias is part of the Shimano Express Program that covers unintentional breakage. With this program, Shimano will replace your broken rod for 50 percent of the rod’s MSRP.

However, premium rods have better replacement programs. Mid-tier rods also are not on the cutting edge of technology, with the best of everything. You may not have the latest and greatest in rod blank technology, the lightest rod guides, or classy cosmetics.

Premium

Premium bass fishing rods are going to give you the most sensitive rod out there. Sensitivity can be key for anglers who want to feel even the slightest bites, and if that’s you, a rod in the $450+ range is the way to go.

They will also be the lightest rod you can find, with lightweight, durable titanium guides and lightweight reel seats. When you pick up a premium rod, you can immediately tell a difference in the in-hand weight.

These rods are backed with great replacement programs. Our best overall rod, the G-Loomis NRX, has a no-questions-asked replacement program. Loomis ships a replacement rod to you for a fee of $175, which is about 25 percent of the MSRP.

These rods are a real treat to have, but most people can’t afford to fill their rod lockers with them. Some guys carry over twenty rods on their boat. The NRX runs at a steep $650. You do the math.

Because of the specialized nature of bass rods and the number I carry, I limit the amount of premium bass fishing rods I have. I prefer premium rods in two situations: when fishing with finesse and sensitivity-focused techniques, and when I’m carrying one rod on foot and want to have the best.

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