When I first heard of the Camino de Santiago, I was in the Smoky Mountains of North Carolina hiking the Appalachian Trail (AT). I overheard someone exclaim, “You’re telling me there’s a hike in Spain where I can sleep in a bed, take a hot shower, eat and drink as much as I want, and I’m here instead?”
Soon, I learned that the Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, is a historic pilgrimage route with various paths across Spain and Portugal. It leads to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, the resting place of the apostle Saint James.
Nowadays, the Camino attracts people from all over the world. There are more than 200 Camino routes, but the seven most popular are the Camino Francés (French Way), Camino Portugués (Portuguese Way), Camino del Norte (Northern Way), Camino Primitivo (Primitive Way), Camino Inglés (English Way), Camino Invierno (Winter Way), and Camino Finisterre.
While many Camino routes begin in other countries, they ultimately converge with paths leading to Santiago. The path is marked with yellow scallop shells painted along the way. They’re similar to the Appalachian Trail’s white blaze markers. In towns and cities, you’ll also find metal scallops laid in the ground showing you the way.
In 2024, nearly 500,000 people completed the journey. Almost half of those walked the Camino Francés. If you’re looking for a less crowded option, this recent article covers some less-frequented alternative routes.
This article will focus on the Camino Francés, the route I walked. I’ll cover logistics, including when to go, how long it typically takes, the difficulty level, daily distances, where to stay, what to eat, and what to budget for. I’ll highlight Camino traditions, such as the pilgrim’s credential and bringing a small stone from home, as well as must-see sights along the route and, of course, essential gear.
Key Things to Know About the Camino de Santiago
When to Go
Most people start in May or September because the weather is milder at that time. The summer is not recommended because the trail is so exposed, and it will be hot. Even in late September, I experienced days over 90 degrees F (32 degrees C) with very little shade. I often started hiking at 5:30 a.m. to beat the heat. The weather was incredible, though. It only rained on the day I arrived, the second day, and the last.
It’s important to note that starting too early means encountering snow crossing the Pyrenees on the first day, and some albergues (pilgrim hostels) start closing around Oct. 30. So, there is a seasonal time window for thru-hiking.
Route Distance
The Camino Francés is approximately 500 miles (800 km) long. However, you can start closer to the end if you don’t want to walk that far.
I began in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France. The route concludes in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. It is typically divided into 33 recommended daily stages, which typically range from 10 to 21 miles (17 to 34 km), depending on terrain and elevation gain/loss. Most stages offer several options for overnight stays, allowing pilgrims to be flexible in hiking shorter or longer distances.
How Long Will It Take?
The average time to complete the Camino is about a month. However, many people plan extra days for rest and exploration, including slower and shorter walking days, or additional travel to the coast, other parts of Spain, Europe, or beyond afterward.
To receive a Compostela, the official certificate awarded by the Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago de Compostela, you must complete at least the final 62 miles (100 km) on foot along an official Camino route ending in Santiago. Most pilgrims with limited time begin in Sarria, the city closest to meeting the distance requirement on the Camino Francés.
During these final miles, all pilgrims must collect at least two stamps per day in their credencial (pilgrim passport). When you go to the Pilgrim’s office in Santiago de Compostela, they will check your stamps and print out your free Compostela right there.
Daily Distances
The terrain is very different from that of the AT or Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). The Camino de Santiago is mostly on dirt, gravel, or paved roads, with only a few steep downhill sections on rocky terrain.
Starting from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the first day (or stage) is the hardest. But it’s also a beautiful way to start your adventure. The trail climbs for 4,100 feet (1,250 m) along a road and then on a dirt path. It crosses the Pyrenees into Spain, and descends 2,130 feet (650 m) into Roncesvalles over 15.5 miles (25 km). After this, the rest of the Camino is relatively flat with rolling hills and a few climbs here and there.
The average daily distance of the stages is approximately 15 miles (24 km). However, you can take it as slow or as fast as you want.
Difficulty
As for your fitness level, you should be able to walk multiple miles a day, for multiple days. However, there’s enough infrastructure along the way that you can always take a bus, train, or taxi if you need to.
In the U.S., we say “hike your own hike,” and I think the Camino is very similar. Your Camino is your own.
The hardest part, physically, would be the weight of your pack (we’ll discuss gear below). Aim for about 15 to 20 pounds, and if possible, always go with less. My pack weighed just 12.5 pounds (!) at its base weight, without food and water. Because you don’t have to camp along the way, you can pack a lot less than hikers on the AT or PCT can.
Many people carry their packs the whole time. However, you can always ship it ahead. One company, Jacotrans, will pick up your luggage at your albergue and deliver it to your next place for just $7 (€6).
Staying in Albergues (Pilgrim Hostels)
The Camino has ample lodging, food, and water throughout your journey. After a long day walking dusty roads for miles, you reach an albergue where voluntarios or hospitalarios, people from all over the world who have walked the Camino themselves, welcome you in. They often provide a disposable sheet and show you where you can take a hot shower.
Signing up for a three-course pilgrim’s meal (including plenty of wine) for only $15-20 (€13-17) was a common occurrence. This was the “luxury” Camino experience I had heard about years ago while on the AT.
Albergues are hostels for pilgrims. The most typical albergue has multiple people sharing a room, typically in bunk beds. These communal rooms also share a bathroom and shower area.
They often have a washer and sometimes a dryer available for a cost, or they’ll do it for you for a cost. It’s most typical to wash clothes in the sink outside and then hang them on the line to dry (as pictured below).
Pro tip: Always check the weather before drying, so you don’t end up with wet clothes.
The municipal albergues ranged from $10 to $18 (€8-16) a night and usually had the most beds, sometimes up to hundreds. There were also donation-based places, such as a church. There were the private albergues, which could follow any format and were typically more expensive. Of course, if budget isn’t a concern, you can also stay in hotels along the way.
Booking Albergues
As for albergue reservations, it’s wise to book the first few nights in advance. I reserved places in Saint-Jean and Roncevalles, which I can’t recommend highly enough. Saint-Jean is quite busy, and Roncevalles is the only place to stay without going further than 15.5 miles in 1 day, with plenty of elevation gain.
Zubiri is the end of the next stage before the first city, Pamplona, so you might as well book Zubiri too. You’ll be in the same pack with everyone else who started on the same date. Pamplona will have more options, so you don’t necessarily need to make a reservation there. However, if you want to stay somewhere specific, either reserve a spot or arrive early.
After that, I didn’t reserve many places because I didn’t know how much I wanted to hike every day. There were 33 stages set up, but I had 28 days, so I knew I had to make that time up somewhere. I ended up riding a bike from Burgos to Leon. (If you want to bike that section or more, I highly recommend Burgos Bike Rental.)
People gradually move off the stages and start making their own plans, so reservations are less important until you get to Sarria. As previously explained, from Sarria to Santiago, you’ll experience the busiest section of the trail.
To make plans and reservations, I used the FarOut App, which I was familiar with from my time on the Appalachian Trail. However, other people used the Buen Camino de Santiago App and/or the Camino Ninja App. With those, you can look up albergues, including the number of beds, prices, ratings, and how to make a reservation, among other details.
Pro tip: WhatsApp is extremely useful for contacting albergues for availability and connecting with other international pilgrims.
Food & Drink
Pilgrim meals were very common and a great opportunity to have a home-cooked meal at a community table with other pilgrims. However, to change things up, most albergues offer kitchens and are conveniently located near grocery markets.
Throughout the day, there are usually many towns you’ll walk through where you can easily stop for a quick snack like a Spanish tortilla, also known as a Spanish omelette, or a three-course lunch. There are also vending machines in the most surprising places. I was never hungry on the Camino; in fact, I was often full.
If you have a dietary restriction, then grocery stores will be the best option. If you’re vegetarian, it’s quite easy, but if you’re vegan or gluten-free, it will likely be challenging.
As for water, there was plenty of water along the trail. Most towns feature prominent drinking water fountains in squares. I only brought one water bottle, filled it up often, and then I’d get something to drink, like tea, throughout the day in most towns.
Budgeting
As an American, the albergues are very affordable, and the meals are relatively inexpensive as well.
In my experience, compared to a thru-hike, this was extremely cost-effective, not just in daily expenses, but also in terms of lost income. The Appalachian Trail takes 5 to 7 months to complete, during which you typically don’t earn money. The Camino, by comparison, only took a month. The most expensive part is getting to Europe.
If you plan to spend most nights in the municipal albergues and partake in most pilgrim meals, a comfortable budget would be about $1,500-2,000 for the entire trip.
Pilgrim Passports
When you first check in at the Pilgrim’s Office in Saint Jean Pied de Port, you’ll pay $2.50 (€2) for a “credencial del Peregrino,” your Pilgrim’s Credential or your Pilgrim’s passport. This is a piece of paper where you’ll collect stamps (sellos) to show to the Pilgrim’s office in Santiago de Compostela at the end.
You can also buy one wherever you end up starting. If you run out of space for more stamps, you can buy and carry a new one. Just remember, from Sarria to Santiago, to receive your Compostela (the certificate of completion), you must obtain at least two stamps per day, and they are definitely checked.
This Pilgrim’s Office is also where you can pick up a shell for a donation. Most people carry a shell on their backpack the whole Camino to show they’re a pilgrim.
Notable Stops Along the Camino Francés
A few notable places along the Camino Francés include:
- Pamplona, famous for the Running of the Bulls and Hemingway’s Café Iruña
- The “Pilgrims in Iron” at the top of Alto del Perdón
- The wine fountain just outside Estella Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, known for its wine and tapas culture
- Burgos, featuring an impressive Gothic cathedral you can walk blocks around
- León, home to some of the most beautiful stained-glass windows
- Astorga, home to a Palace by Gaudi
- La Cruz de Ferro, where pilgrims leave a stone they’ve carried from home, symbolizing personal burdens
- Molinaseca, recognized as “One of the Most Beautiful Villages in Spain”
- Ponferrada, with its Templar castle and historic library
- Villafrance del Biezo, with a natural beach, O Cebreiro, offering expansive mountain views
- Portomarín, alongside the Miño River, the longest river in Galicia.
Finally, pilgrims reach Santiago de Compostela, the main destination, with many continuing onward to Finisterre (“the end of the earth”) and Muxía, along the Atlantic coast.
Pilgrim’s Mass
Since this is a religious pilgrimage trek, there are consistent opportunities for group prayer (Pilgrim’s Masses) along the way. The Pilgrim’s Mass can play as large or as small a part in your Camino as you wish. The time and location are often shared with fellow pilgrims, but attendance is never expected. The Mass usually includes song, prayer, communion, and a special pilgrim blessing, mostly in Spanish with occasional translations.
Most people attend the Mass at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, hoping to see the Botafumeiro, the swinging incense thurible. I personally preferred the Pilgrim’s Mass in the small town of Sahagún for its intimate setting.
Although I didn’t attend many Pilgrim’s Masses, I went into most churches I passed by. From the outside, they often look like traditional churches, but inside, they are all ornately decorated. I was continually surprised in each one.
Packing List: The Gear to Bring
While most pilgrims carry a backpack like a thru-hiker, the packing list differs significantly from that of a traditional wilderness trek. Here’s a list of what I carried this past September. Doing laundry at albergues, the following list of gear and clothes was enough to easily get me through a month of trekking.
I’ve included specific brands and products, but this should be used as a general gear guide.
Apparel
Gear
I wouldn’t have taken anything off this list, as I kept things pretty minimal. However, I would have added a few things: a small rock from home (for la Cruz de Ferro), leggings for the chilly mornings, and blister care (like sock liners and Compeed).
How to Get There
Once in France, I took the train from Paris Montparnasse to Bayonne and then changed trains to continue to Saint‑Jean‑Pied‑de‑Port. It was very easy to reserve and manage with the company Trainline. Other people fly into Barcelona, Madrid, or Bilbao in Spain, or Biarritz in France, and then take the train or bus to Saint‑Jean‑Pied‑de‑Port.
While that’s the typical place to begin, you can start wherever you like on your Camino. If your goal is to reach Santiago and receive the Compostela, you just need to hike the final 62 miles (100 km) or bike 124 miles (200 km).
If you’re traveling before or after and need to send luggage ahead to Santiago, Express Bourricot, located right next to the Pilgrim’s Office, will deliver it for $92 (€80) per suitcase. There is a maximum weight of 44 pounds (20 kg).
I chose the French Way because I wanted to experience “the classic” Camino. It appealed to me to stay in popular albergues, meet people from all over the world, make friends, and hike alongside others throughout the day. Knowing that millions of people had completed this journey and that I could too was reassuring.
I started on Sept. 9. I walked about 225 miles to Burgos, rented a bike from Burgos Bike Rentals, and biked about 100 miles to Leon. From there, I walked the remaining 175 miles to Santiago, completing the journey on Oct. 4. It was the exact kind of adventure I was looking for.
My Spanish was basic. It honestly didn’t get much better because so many people spoke English, but it’s always nice to know a few phrases when you’re visiting a new place to connect with the locals and culture.
Many pilgrims return to hike other routes along the Camino de Santiago. There’s a magic that brings people back, and an accessibility that keeps the goal within reach for many.
No matter which route you take, you’ll hear people saying, “Buen Camino!” to each other, a common pilgrim’s greeting you should return in the spirit of the Camino. So buen Camino to you, reader! Happy trekking.
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